By Al Lighton, American Sport Bike

We at SRWmoto have included feedback (some ours some from customers) in italics.

1) We recommend mounting the Micron using the Screaming eagle type flat gaskets (which we have on the site) instead of the stock tapered style ones, as the SE gaskets don't squish out into the ports as much.  They sometimes don't seal as well as the stock type, but I've never really had problems with them.

2) I don't trust the single rear clamp provided with the muffler.  I've recommend adding at least one superior T-bolt clamp (which we have on the site).  I run two rear T-bolt clamps myself for safety. I think running the one they provide plus one of the good ones is sufficient though.  (One customer reused the stock clamps and found these the best fit.  The stock clamps didn't work for us when we had our Micron fitted.)

3) Rotating the engine down is required.  You don't need to disconnect half the stuff the service manual says to.  This might be helpful:
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/32777/96557.html?1107819823

You need to remove the entire airbox, disconnect the upper engine stabilizer bolt (engine end only) there.  You need to remove the lower engine stabilizer bolt (engine end only) down near the drive pulley.  I only disconnect the O2 sensor, the head temp sensor (you may not need to do these), and the clutch cable at the clutch lever. All other electrical/fuel connections are untouched, though you may need to cut a tie wrap or two. (The fuel line may be caught behind the LH side of the upper tie bar assembly - it is easy to remove and may be safer to do so).  Pull the tie wrap support right behind the steering head out of the frame with a screwdriver.   You need to remove the lower belt guard (06 and later only), the left and right scoops.  Remove the muffler, locate the scissors jack there. Remove the three oil cooler subframe bolts that hold the subframe to the main frame (2 bolts left, on bolt right). Then you remove the big front isolator engine bolt, and lower the engine just far enough to get to the top front header bolt on the rear cylinder exhaust port. You want to jack the engine up a little to relieve the load on that front bolt prior to unscrewing it. When the engine is at the perfect height, it is much easier to turn the bolt than when the engine is too high or too low. Lower the engine a little at a time, checking for anything that is interfering or binding. Quiet ambient when you're doing it is a good thing so you can hear if anything is doing something bad.

3a)When you pull the engine up again make sure that you bring all of the wires up through into the air intake cover before you bolt the engine in.

4) Use 7-9 foot lbs on the nuts, and re-torque them after each of the first 5 heat cycles.  Since you can't tighten the top rear one after the engine is rotated up, tighten the top one a few more foot-lbs than the lower rear nut, pulling the flange slightly leaning to the top side.. After the 5 heat cycles and subsequent re-tightening of the lower nut, hopefully, the flange will be parallel and the torque will be equalized. 

5) The instructions say to put the rear tube at 22mm above the timing cover. It works, follow it. (On models after 2008 there is no timing cover.  The stock exhaust on a 2007 sits 12mm above the timing cover, so you need to have the Micron about 10mm higher than the stock exhaust from a point of reference on the Cam cover.) But if it needs to be adjusted a little as the final muffler is being fitted after the engine is pivoted back up, you can loosen just the rear nut and carefully rotate it a little bit. Rotate it too  much and you'll do the port gasket no favors, but a small adjustment up or down is OK.

6) Leaks in an exhaust system can lead to excess Decel popping. I recommend using Permatex High temp Black silicone sealer (sensor safe) on the slip joints, and especially make sure the compression slots get filled with the sealer.  I also recommend applying it and letting it dry overnight prior to starting the engine. If you start it right away, you'll blow the goop out of the slots.

7) Related to 6, the header to muffler fit is looser than the  other slip fits. You might find it helpful to have the slide the clamps on the muffler stub pipes away from the muffler so that they are only half on the muffler stubs, do a nice snug down, then loosen and slide them back so that they are flush with the end of the muffler stubs for the final tightening. This will help close the stubs down on the headers a little bit.

8) Some of the slip fits on the header may be too tight. Check for rough edges, and bevel the edges a little bit with a dremel tool (even along the compression slots) and you'll be able to fit them together with less effort.  It is a good idea to try all these fits PRIOR to putting them on the engine.

9) If you've bought the ceramic coated header option, the slip fits will be even tighter. I have found it easier to mate those ceramic coated fits if the ceramic coating is buffed off with a scotchbright wheel or similar.

10) Force nothing.  the bike will eat pre-stressed bracketry and fits for lunch.  Everything should be hanging naturally before ANYTHING (except that top rear header nut) gets tightened.

If you've never done it, it's a 3-4 hour job. It isn't hard.